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Off in the far distance is the jagged outline of the sierra. You point out a notch where there must be a canyon. Socio had said there were supposed to be deer up there. After walking her to her hotel, you say goodnight, only it comes out sounding like a question. She looks at you as if waiting for you to act, and then you grab her head behind either ear and start kissing her in a way that seems surprising, forceful.

You break apart for a second.

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The two of you communicate something with your tongues and lips and hands that feels beautiful and somehow sad. Then you go even slower. Then you stop and say buenas noches again. You both still have your palms up towards each other, the tips of your fingers interlaced. You begin to pull your hands apart, but then you start up again. The next morning you hike all your shit over the headland and down to Cerritos. After hitching in surprised how far it seems you buy the biggest skillet they have in Todos Santos.

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You buy a large cookpot with a lid and arced handle so you can hang it over the fire. You buy tomatoes, chiles, cilantro, onions, limes, rice, beans, cheese, tortillas, coffee, and sugar. And then, as if it were all planned, you see her walking through town. She gives you the face-smile, but here in the sunlight it seems embarrassing to move right up to her with all these bags in your hand and a 5 gallon water jug over your shoulder.

You just want to get back to how it felt last night and you can feel your face all stiff and worried-looking. And you think about your little camp down past the point. Your pieces of gear spread out there. And so you ask her if she wants to camp with you. You say it simply, and somehow — perhaps by virtue of it not being in your native language, perhaps because you feel baby-like and powerless at this exact moment — your question seems to simultaneously imply everything and nothing.

Passing time together in this place. Feature photo by Sue Jan. About Advertise with us. Where it 'went down. Travel I went to see a bushman healer to salve my wounds.


Jo Jackson Apr 13, Travel I visited one of the strangest places in Mexico: Rulo Luna Jul 20, Matador's growing Creators Community is the place to connect with fellow travel journalists. Download the mobile app. Toned, I keep fit I'm a Gemini Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

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